Cow hide laid out ready to mark, this is a #1 or A grade 9-10 ounce hide from Hermann Oak Leather Co. in St Lewis, USA
A line should be scribed at the proper width for the leather belt
I like to clamp the straight edge to get a very accurate cut
After the strap is cut it should be examined to cut the belt from the best portion of the strap, at the arrow is a fairly large wrinkle, we'll cut just the other side of that.
The buckle tang holes should be uniform, I make them 1 inch apart 5 in belts below 50 6 in belts from 50 to 60 inch and 7 in belts over 60 inches. the black template is just a piece of leather with holes at the proper distance.
This belt is goin to be a 58 inch, 6 holes with the belt size hole at the fourth hole from the tip.
Here is another template for the buckle end with a tange cut out in the center and 4 holes for the 2 chicago screws or snaps to be installed in. The distance to the size hole in the belt should be measured from a point which is the length of the buckle to be used past the center of the buckle tang cut out.The buckle we will use on this belt is 1 1/4 inches long
When the holes are marked they should be checked to make sure they are in the exact center of the strap.
These two pictures are of the belt tip , with buckle tang holes and the buckle end with all holes marked.
The belt then needs to be dyed
The corners should be skived to round the edges so the belt doesn't cut into the pant belt loops.
These are the small strips of leather removed from the belt edges
The belt is then dampened and the edge trim lines impressed
After drying I apply leather balm with wax in it
The sides are then coated with gum tragacanth to seal the leather edges
A small area at the belt tip is then skived off to allow the tip to go through the belt keeper and loops easier
Then the back of the belt is coated with sealer
The extra length of leather at the buckle end is then cut off to make the belt keeper.
The leather for the belt keeper is skived to make it a bit thinner.
Then like the belt the edges should be skived (rounded) then cut to length.
The belt keeper piece is then dampened ,shaped, stapled together and formed around a double thickness of the same leather as the belt is being made of, and let dry
The buckle end holes then are punched out.
Finished buckle end holes
We then stamp the belt size and our maker stamp in the belt
Then the belt tip (size holes) are punched out
How to make a plain leather belt